Dining
Tap into the essence of Italy while reading a review of Semolina restaurant.

Bon Appétit By Janet Curran Perlman, photos by Dan Epstein Enjoying Upscale Italian Dining at Semolina B as the $9.95 Spinaci, baby spinach with goat cheese, estowing upon Joe Catalano, owner of Milltoasted walnuts, and strawberries with a balsamic burn's Semolina restaurant, her highest cuglaze, and the $8.95 Greek-inspired Cucumber linary accolade, my guest at a recent dinner Salad with tomatoes, red onion, gorgonzola, black proclaimed him "a real food geek!" Why? "Because he really understands the chemistry of food," she olives, and a zesty yogurt dressing. marveled after listening to Catalano describe how eir signature pasta is the Rigatoni Semolina, caramelizing the onions that accompany his lamb $16.95, $16.95, a generously portioned dish blending turkey shank breaks down the proteins and makes the lamb ragu with a light tomato sauce, peas, and a touch of less gamy. cream—rich cream—rich and savory. at kind of understanding translates to a starTwo Two fall- and winter-worthy winners are the studded menu featuring upscale Italian dishes— Pollo Balsamico, $17.95, chicken breast with portoBalsamico, incorporating incorporating techniques from around the world bellos bellos and sundried tomatoes in a balsamic demithat that Catalano has picked up over the years in the glace, glace, accompanied by sautéed spinach and roasted restaurant profession. red bliss potatoes, and the Stinco Di Agnelo, braised Semolina's Semolina's intimate dining room can be lamb shank with caramelized onions, sautéed spinreached by walking down a hallway past a bustling ach, ach, and roasted potatoes, $23.95. open open kitchen. Crisp linens cover the tables and Flown Flown in overnight from the Mediterranean, cheerful cheerful scenes of Italy dot the the $27.95 Grilled Branzino is stuccoed walls. As we checked wonderfully wonderfully moist, tender, and out out the extensive menu, a loaf tasty. tasty. Catalano serves the filets 343 343 Millburn Avenue, Millburn of of warm, crisp bread and herbed with baby carrots, toasted cori973-379-9101 butter immediately appeared on ander sauce, and roasted fennel Semolina-Restaurant.com pureé. "I slow cook the fennel the the table. Here's a clever appeHours Hours of operation: with olive oil in the oven for 12 tizer idea: Choose three out of Lunch: Lunch: Tue-Sat 11am-3pm hours, then pureé it," Catalano 10 appetizers for $9.99 or six for explains as we rave about the $19.95 and sample or share, as Dinner: Tue-Fri 4:30-10pm Sat: 4:30-11pm dish. we we did with the Caponata, sweet Sun: 4-9:30pm When it comes to desand sour Sicilian eggplant; toBYO sert, indulge yourself with one mato salad with marinated cherof Semolina's homemade spery tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and cials—a fresh apple tart with cinnamon ice cream or spices; and roasted marinated mushroom salad. the best bread pudding I've had since New Orleans, For an elegant starter, it's Cozze al Forno, accompanied here by a grappa and vanilla-infused $10.95, $10.95, meaty, tender Prince Edward Island mussels cream, both $9.95. fire-baked in the wood oven with a hint of white Having worked as a chef at many popular New wine, light pesto cream sauce, and pignoli nuts. One Jersey and Manhattan restaurants, Catalano is clearTartar, taste of the Tonno Tartar $12.95, a colorful tower ly proud to say, "Semolina is my baby. I created this of of diced fresh tuna with capers, red pepper, lemon, restaurant all by myself." And after enjoying a deand Tuscan virgin olive oil, and my guest called dibs. lightful evening of sumptuous food, we might add, " is is mine!" she exclaimed. "…and you did it very, very well!" Semolina Semolina offers outstanding salads, too, such s SEMOLINA 56 56 Vicinity Vicinity MAGAZinE October 2009

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